Jenny's Skincare Primer

A few years ago, I wrote a tongue-in-cheek email to a former colleague regarding my entire skincare routine and recommendations. This colleague and I had recently gone to an indie musical festival together, in the dead heat of summer, and I had introduced him to my favorite sunscreen at the time. The simple recommendation turned into a manifesto of sorts, and the rest is history.

Over the years, that email has been passed around my friend group and has rippled out to extend beyond my own circles, from friends' boyfriends and girlfriends to mothers and more. It is exactly as the title of this post says: a detailed explanation of my own personal skincare routine and methodology. What started as a casual, silly email has become my go-to document I pass along to people when they ask me the secret to my great skin (cue: me putting on a v humble face, no pun intended), or when it inevitably comes up in a juicy chat about skincare. So, I thought I should share it on my blog!

I will preface by stating some important caveats, in no particular order: 

-I am NOT an expert and my skin is by no means perfect, but I get complimented on and questioned about it often. I attribute this to my skincare habits and interest, and my momma's Korean genes and insistence on using moisturizer from a young age (thx Mom).

-As evidenced by the fact that this was originally written for a man, skincare knows no gender! Take care of your skin, all people!

-I say this now as someone without wrinkles, but almost 30 - laugh lines, crow's feet, and their like are wrongly vilified by society. To me, all of that is just evidence of life well-lived. I'll probably cry when I find my first grey hair but whatever.

-To the previous point, is such a routine excessive and vain? I mean, kind of, probably. But I take pleasure in feeling confident in however my skin looks, the comfort of a spa-like routine, and knowing that I am taking measures to care for my body. And despite the intimidating information to follow, the investment and minor time (5-10 minutes each day), is worth it, for me.

-All skin is different. What works for me, may not work for others. But the reasoning and principles of my regimen will point you in the right direction, I hope.

-I am not trying to sell you anything. In fact, if you can find cheaper yet still effective alternatives, I'm all ears! But no, I'm not being sponsored or coerced by a multi-level marketing company or anything like that. Though it would be cool if I shifted into that market #justsaying. This is all just my own personal opinion, research, and experience over many years of my own skincare.

What follows is that same, long-winded email, pretty much verbatim, with names altered and inside jokes mostly removed. I've updated some products with what's in my current and ever-evolving routine. Enjoy, friends!

Jenny's Skincare Primer

Hi Male Friend [name redacted]! First of all, let me say, I am so excited to begin this skincare journey with you! Skincare can be a luxurious part of one's every day. It can be a great way to both start your day, and to relax with a pampering routine after a long hard day at work. With this in mind, I have kept the prescribed routine simple, yet highly effective. It is also highly tailor-able to your needs and level of comfort. Remember, this is a change of lifestyle, not just a face-diet, and can benefit your confidence and exterior for years of happy skin to come.

I hope this is helpful advice and doesn't feel like too much! I tried to go easy on the different products you need or steps you do, and there will less obviously because you're not worrying about taking your makeup off fully at the end of a day. However, we will take a 3-pronged line of attack: 

1) Cleansing

2) Moisturizing in 3 Parts

3) Contingency

4) Xtras (okay I added one I can't help myself).

I am basing this off of a few factors. You have oily skin like me. You are of the male gender and do not wear makeup, so less factors to consider, and less marketing of products geared toward you (this is to your benefit). And, you may not have wrinkle/sun damage concerns to the extent that most women do. BUT YOU SHOULD!! Okay, that is the end of the sexist portion of this lesson.

1) Cleansing

Many run-of-the-mill, drugstore cleansers geared toward oily skin, or acne-prone skin, are in fact too harsh and strip our skin of its natural oils. Our skin is oily because it over-compensates for the natural moisture that is shorn by too-hot water or strong chemicals. Yet, we want a deep cleanse of our skin to rid it of the bacteria that, in combination with excess oil, create pimples and other unsavories (namely, blackheads). Hence, my favorite cleanser is a gentle cleanser by Philosophy. It does the job but is soothing on the skin. I use this night and day as my cleanser. I buy the $36 bottle like once a year, and it lasts forever.

2017 update: Neutrogena Hydro Boost Hydrating Cleansing Gel is a great cleanser, with not much in the way of hydrating as the name implies, but still solidly in rotation. I keep this in the shower as the "my boyfriend is also going to use this up" cleanser, so if you need a recommendation in that area, there it is. Also, more affordable! Currently I am using the Simple Micellar Gel Wash.

2017 update: in the original email I did not elaborate on makeup removal, but this step is arguably the most important of the "Cleansing" part. Here, I adhere to the Korean method of double-cleansing: first with an oil-based cleanser, then with a water-based cleanser. Makeup removal should always be done before what we think of as traditional, facewash cleansing. Yes, cleanse twice. I swear by Clinique's Take the Day off Balm to remove makeup at the end of the day. Don't be turned off by its solid, greasy appearance - this takes off all makeup and then turns into a milky cleanser on contact with water. It's only $30 and will last you forever. Also, it travels well.

2) Moisturizing in 3 Parts

Do not be intimidated by the 3 steps!! If you are going through hell, keep going!!

2a) If you are serious about your skin aging and looking younger longer, which I'm not sure if you are or not but you probably should be also for skin cancer possibilities, you will want to use sunscreen EVERY DAY. Obviously, you skip this step at night, unless you are a daywalker and sleep with the curtains open. I recommend a full-spectrum sunscreen formulated for oily skin, like this ****ing expensive one from some Japanese brand (you know it's good if it's from Asia, and no I'm not biased Male Friend).

2017 update: I currently use, and prefer, Biore Sarasara UV Aqua Rich Watery Essence Sunscreen. Don't worry, it still comes all the way from Japan.

2b) Sunscreen goes under your moisturizer EVERY DAY. For day and night, however, one will always want to feed the skin with the best ingredients. Face serums will deliver the real impact to your skin. What is best? This magical, and also ****ing expensive concotion from Kiehl's. You, like me, are likely hesitant at the thought of putting oils on your already oily skin. But trust me on this. If you want something that is truly going to change the landscape of your face for the better, you want Midnight Recovery Oil. This is both luxurious and chock full of all the very best things for your skin. It comes very recommended from dermatology experts and myself, not that those 2 parties are placed in the same sentence for any particular reason. Plus, it smells great and when you wake up in the morning, you will be confused that a baby's butt replaced your face.

2017 update: I would change this recommendation to any good, antioxidant serum that you can use day and night, under sunscreen and moisturizer. I have used and liked Paula's Choice RESIST Super Antioxidant Serum, although this area of skincare is perhaps the most customizable. Currently I have the cult favorite Dr Jart+ Ceramidin Liquid in my rotation, and highly recommend.

2c) Moisturizer follows serum. Moisturizer is necessary even, and especially for, oily skin like ours. Do you want a lightweight moisturizer for your every day life, that is more cost effective? Then I recommend the Dramatically Different Daily Moisture Gel from Clinique. This is specifically for oily skin, yet provides great moisture. No matter what daily moisturizers I try, this is the one I come back to time and time again. It never fails.

2017 update: Another good, lightweight moisturizer from Clinique is the Moisture Surge Hydrating Supercharged Concentrate. Other potent, affordable options I love include the Cerave Moisturizing Cream and French pharmacy favorite Embryolisse Lait-Crème Concentrè. These latter options are chock full of great skinfood ingredients and will lock in moisture, even in Chicago winters.

I am loving Caudalie Vine[Activ] Overnight Oil at night. It is a dry oil purported to detoxify your skin overnight from the harsh effects of pollution and free-radicals. I like to think this addition is necessary living in Chicago, but in general, adding in a dry oil can be beneficial to your moisturizing routine. It depends on your skin needs.

3) Contingency

Pimples. The struggle is real. And how do we combat the struggle? Benzoyl peroxide. You can use any benzoyl peroxide-type spot treatment that you find at the drugstore, this is a good one too. It's pretty strong, so if you have sensitive skin, maybe look elsewhere. It will also stain towels and sheets so use sparingly, and specifically. The Effaclar Duo Dual Action Acne Treatment is popular, but I prefer a more affordable, yet equally effective, Neutrogena Rapid Clear Mask as a spot treatment rather than an entire mask.

Queen Helene's Mint Julep Masque is dirt cheap and can be found at any drug store. Put this on your entire face as a mask once a week to cleanse and suck out all the blackheads (make sure you moisturize well after), or use it as a spot treatment to dry out pimples overnight.

4) Xtras, Or Jenny's Must-Haves But Maybe Not Your Must-Haves

Chemical exfoliant, or, Shit Gets Real. If you want really great skin, you're going to want to exfoliate regularly. Don't use that apricot chunk scrub garbage you buy at the drugstore. That causes microscopic tears in your skin that age you faster over time! The way to go is glycolic acid or lactic acid. Think we haven't spent enough on skincare yet? Think again, because I can't believe I pay this much for an skincare product. But the REN Glycol Lactic Radiance Renewal Mask will always be in my routine and probably makes the most instantly noticeable difference in my skincare lineup. It uses strong AHAs to penetrate the top layer of dead skin. I use this once a week, and always before special events when I want my skin to look truly glowing and fabulous.

Toner - I basically rejected the use of toner after I grew out of hormonal, teenage acne, but toner has made its comeback in the realm of Korean 10-step skincare routines for its restorative claims of PH balance. I use the Skin Laundry Balancing Antioxidant Toner because I like the added antioxidants into my current routine, but I do not think toning is super necessary.

Creepy Sheet Masks, an essential for any true skincare addict. Sheet masks have many benefits, are super cheap, and part of my every Sunday night. Basically it's a piece of fiber that you slap on your face and absorb by osmosis all the juicy benefits. I've never used these but they are called "I Need You" mask which is all sorts of desperate and weird and Asian, so why not! Or, come on down to Ole Jenny's every Sunday night for a regular sheet mask hoe down ;) (This is not a euphemism. I literally slap a sheet mask on my face and lie prone for 15-30 minutes and contemplate the nuances of life)

Other Masks include the Korean beloved sleeping masks, or highly moisturizing treatments meant to lie on the skin overnight. I fell for the Watermelon Glow Sleeping Mask which is flying off Sephora shelves, and also rate the Laneige Water Sleeping Mask. These are not essential as the main steps, but a luxurious punch of water to your faceskin.

Water and Sleep are essential to good skin all over, and in large quantity.

Eye cream? Is it a necessary step, or a gimmick? Does it even work? Who cares, but I straight up abuse eye cream. I like to think it reduces the dark bags under my eyes caused by long and stressful work days. For a fantastic drugstore option, I highly rate the Cerave Eye Repair Cream and for the luxury option, recommend Kiehls Midnight Recovery Eye.

Lip Balm and Hand Cream, or items I keep on my nightstand and in my purse to keep other parts of my body moisturized. Currently in my rotation are the Vaseline Lip Therapy in Cocoa Butter which sets well under lipstick and hydrates great overnight, and the Trader Joe's Ultra Moisturizing Hand Cream which is a $5, great-smelling dupe for the L'Occitane hand creams. Another great lip treatment for daytime are the Jack Black tubes (I'm partial to the Black Tea and Grapefruit scents), which also contain SPF.

Body, or, the endless struggle to end ashiness. I moisturize my body immediately after the shower and have always done this, but this may be a foreign concept to some (shout out to my perfect boyfriend who doesn't drink water or moisturize and still has great skin....wait, did I just negate my entire manifesto?). I'm constantly trying new body washes and lotions, much more frequently than my skincare items. For pure, gourmand-scented luxury, I love the L'Occitane Almond Shower Oil and Laura Mercier Ambre Vanille Body Butter. But for my everday, non-bougie self, I like the Trader Joe's Midsummer Night's Cream and whatever Costco-priced giant tub of body wash we keep in the shower.

The TLDR; of my personal, current routine which takes 5-10 minutes, twice a day, max:

1) Double cleanse: first with [Clinique Take the Day Off balm] to remove all makeup (skip in morning, and only do one cleanse). Second, cleanse with a water-based cleanser [Simple Micellar face wash gel].

2) Optional, apply toner [Skin Laundry Antioxidant Toner].

3) Apply serum [Dr Jart+ Ceramidin liquid], moisturizer [Clinique concentrate], eye cream [Cerave Eye Repair] and sunscreen in morning [Biore]. At night and in place of sunscreen, swap for heavier moisturizer [Caudalie dry oil and/or Cerave cream].

4) Optional, apply exfoliating mask [REN Glycolactic] once a week before moisturizing, and several times a week indulge in either a leave-on mask [Watermelon Glow Sleeping Mask] or sheet mask [whatever is in the drawer] after moisturizing. If needed, apply spot treatment [varies].

Well, that ends the longest, most prescriptive email I've written in a while! You do know I'm an aspiring novelist, yes? I know it's a lot, but I wanted to be comprehensive and helpful! I hope some of it is useful for you. Please let me know if you have any questions at any time, I seriously LOVE skincare and it's one of my indulgences. That and gallery walls and books and music and etc. Seriously, let's chat more about skincare. Okay Male Friend, good luck!!

Your pal and gerbil queen,

Jenny